Rockfax Description
6c, S1. A classic, with a soft landing. From halfway along the approach traverse, climb the slab and then the steep pocketed wall above to a big hole. Swing left and make some final tricky moves onto the top slab. Linking from just below the crux to Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage is Freeborn Borg, 7a+, S1, and continuing direct onto the slab is Freeborn Direct, 7a, S1. © Rockfax
FA. Nick Buckley, Kevin Turner Aug/1979.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Hard water, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Dorset DWS progression, 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals, 2021 Trad Goald, DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
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| plant_based_tommo | 1 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: One of the best! | βeta? |
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βeta: One of the best! |
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| David Dickinson | 24 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Couldn't believe I'd done it, not quite what I expected but so so good | βeta? |
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βeta: Couldn't believe I'd done it, not quite what I expected but so so good |
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| daimon | 22 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: If this line was a sport's route it would get 6b+ especially in Yorkshire. Or maybe HVS I don't know ;-), but what people need to take into account with DWS is the head factor, which for most people places the grade a bit higher. So if its 6b+ sport I think with the added grip factor it goes at 6c. | βeta? |
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βeta: If this line was a sport's route it would get 6b+ especially in Yorkshire. Or maybe HVS I don't know ;-), but what people need to take into account with DWS is the head factor, which for most people places the grade a bit higher. So if its 6b+ sport I think with the added grip factor it goes at 6c. |
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| Sash.C | 24 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: An excellent route, but admittedly i didn't have the minerals to get over onto the top slab - gutted! instead, a controlled fall saw me flying into the drink, much to the joy the cheering crowd of spectators! will be back next week for another pop at it though. 3 star fun! | βeta? |
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βeta: An excellent route, but admittedly i didn't have the minerals to get over onto the top slab - gutted! instead, a controlled fall saw me flying into the drink, much to the joy the cheering crowd of spectators! will be back next week for another pop at it though. 3 star fun! |
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| Sam Ring | 2 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: I'm sure leading it would be harder. Good route 6b+ sport grade. Not sure if its worth the hype, but good nonetheless. | βeta? |
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βeta: I'm sure leading it would be harder. Good route 6b+ sport grade. Not sure if its worth the hype, but good nonetheless. |
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| tobyfk | 31 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: F6b+! If you have fairly strong fingers there will only be one move that feels at all insecure. The E grade: who cares ... | βeta? |
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βeta: F6b+! If you have fairly strong fingers there will only be one move that feels at all insecure. The E grade: who cares ... |
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| Adam Lincoln | 17 May, 2004 |
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βeta: 6c?! 6b is cloer to the mark. | βeta? |
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βeta: 6c?! 6b is cloer to the mark. |
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| johncoxmysteriously | 20 Jun, 2000 |
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βeta: Fabulous but E4 is taking the piss. The Conger is just as hard if not harder. (A little) reach dependent going up for the break. | βeta? |
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βeta: Fabulous but E4 is taking the piss. The Conger is just as hard if not harder. (A little) reach dependent going up for the break. |
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| Ally Smith | 16 Mar, 2000 |
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βeta: Probably F6c+/7a, but OK if you keep moving quickly. Watch out for the pull over the lip where the holds suddenly get smaller, WICKED! | βeta? |
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βeta: Probably F6c+/7a, but OK if you keep moving quickly. Watch out for the pull over the lip where the holds suddenly get smaller, WICKED! |
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Logged Ascents
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Impending Gleam
Grade: E4 5c ***(Fisherman's Ledge)