Rockfax Description
6c, S1. A classic, with a soft landing. From halfway along the approach traverse, climb the slab and then the steep pocketed wall above to a big hole. Swing left and make some final tricky moves onto the top slab. Linking from just below the crux to Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage is Freeborn Borg, 7a+, S1, and continuing direct onto the slab is Freeborn Direct, 7a, S1. © Rockfax
FA. Nick Buckley, Kevin Turner Aug/1979.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Hard water, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Dorset DWS progression, UK DWS 2018 / 19!, 2020 Deep Water Solo Goals
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| plant_based_tommo | 1 Sep |
Show βeta
βeta: One of the best! | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: One of the best! |
|||
| David Dickinson | 24 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't believe I'd done it, not quite what I expected but so so good | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't believe I'd done it, not quite what I expected but so so good |
|||
| daimon | 22 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: If this line was a sport's route it would get 6b+ especially in Yorkshire. Or maybe HVS I don't know ;-), but what people need to take into account with DWS is the head factor, which for most people places the grade a bit higher. So if its 6b+ sport I think with the added grip factor it goes at 6c. | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: If this line was a sport's route it would get 6b+ especially in Yorkshire. Or maybe HVS I don't know ;-), but what people need to take into account with DWS is the head factor, which for most people places the grade a bit higher. So if its 6b+ sport I think with the added grip factor it goes at 6c. |
|||
| Sash.C | 24 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, but admittedly i didn't have the minerals to get over onto the top slab - gutted! instead, a controlled fall saw me flying into the drink, much to the joy the cheering crowd of spectators! will be back next week for another pop at it though. 3 star fun! | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, but admittedly i didn't have the minerals to get over onto the top slab - gutted! instead, a controlled fall saw me flying into the drink, much to the joy the cheering crowd of spectators! will be back next week for another pop at it though. 3 star fun! |
|||
| Sam Ring | 2 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm sure leading it would be harder. Good route 6b+ sport grade. Not sure if its worth the hype, but good nonetheless. | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: I'm sure leading it would be harder. Good route 6b+ sport grade. Not sure if its worth the hype, but good nonetheless. |
|||
| tobyfk | 31 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: F6b+! If you have fairly strong fingers there will only be one move that feels at all insecure. The E grade: who cares ... | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: F6b+! If you have fairly strong fingers there will only be one move that feels at all insecure. The E grade: who cares ... |
|||
| Adam Lincoln | 17 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: 6c?! 6b is cloer to the mark. | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: 6c?! 6b is cloer to the mark. |
|||
| johncoxmysteriously | 20 Jun, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous but E4 is taking the piss. The Conger is just as hard if not harder. (A little) reach dependent going up for the break. | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: Fabulous but E4 is taking the piss. The Conger is just as hard if not harder. (A little) reach dependent going up for the break. |
|||
| Ally Smith | 16 Mar, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: Probably F6c+/7a, but OK if you keep moving quickly. Watch out for the pull over the lip where the holds suddenly get smaller, WICKED! | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: Probably F6c+/7a, but OK if you keep moving quickly. Watch out for the pull over the lip where the holds suddenly get smaller, WICKED! |
|||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Mother Africa
Grade: E4 6a ***(Boulder Ruckle)