UKC

Rockfax Description
Popular and very good when dry. A bouldery start past some finger pockets leads onto a rail and jug-riddled wall.

Lucky Lizzy, 6c+ - It can be extended to the top of the crag by moving right and climbing the upper section of Surplomb de Ray / Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first climb in the cave proper. Use the pockets to get established on the wall then make a big move onto the conglomerate ledge. Heelhook leftwards and then follow the juggy pockets back right to gain the lower off.

Roy Thomas 1996.

Ticklists

CUMC Ticklist , Rockfax South Wales Top 50 , The Road to 8a , Rockfax South Wales Top 45 , Unfinished business , UK Flowstone , Steep UK Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
TomClothier 25 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Partner broke off a crimp edge low down, potentially much harder now. Did the moves first time up and couldn't repeat them after, but don't have much experience on the route so unsure if it's vital.
Show beta
βeta: Partner broke off a crimp edge low down, potentially much harder now. Did the moves first time up and couldn't repeat them after, but don't have much experience on the route so unsure if it's vital.
little couls 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route big moves at the start to a lovely jug rail then excellent flow til the end 10/10
Show beta
βeta: Great route big moves at the start to a lovely jug rail then excellent flow til the end 10/10

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Oxwich Bay Quarry)

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