Rockfax Description
A brilliant exercise that tackles the severely leaning groove in the back of the cave. Can be extended up Surplomb de Ray (no change in grade). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This takes the obvious groove up the back of the main cave. Don't be put off by the sometimes damp holds at the start - the rest is fantastic. Start slightly left of the groove, moving up to gain the conglomerate ledge for a good hands off rest. From here some fancy footwork and a few big moves allow progress higher into the groove and (hopefully) to an intermediate belay where the angle eases. For an extra pump, and the full tick, continue up the recently-regeared No Epoxy Au Oxley to a higher belay.
Goi Ashmore 19/Apr/1996.
South Wales Sevens , Rockfax South Wales Top 50 , Becky's ticklist , The Road to 8a , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , Rockfax South Wales Top 45 , UK Flowstone , Steep UK Sport Routes , Recommended 7's 2021 , Steep! , 2025 Is The Year , ROCKFAX - South Wales Sport climbs 7b/+ Graded list
User | Date | Notes | ||
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kateb-oxf | 23 Jun |
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βeta: The left-hand side bolt of the first anchor at the edge of the cave is a bit wobbly...! Needs replacing! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The left-hand side bolt of the first anchor at the edge of the cave is a bit wobbly...! Needs replacing! |
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igola | 23 Jun |
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βeta: Left bolt at first anchor continues to be wobbly – don't rely on it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Left bolt at first anchor continues to be wobbly – don't rely on it! |
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j_duds | 11 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: The left staple pin wobbles in the lower off. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The left staple pin wobbles in the lower off. |
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Behold81 | 21 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Love this route. However left pin on the first chains is moving and should not be relied on. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Love this route. However left pin on the first chains is moving and should not be relied on. |
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tomlangton | 28 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Left pin on the first lower off is currently loose and spins in its hole, needs replacing ASAP! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Left pin on the first lower off is currently loose and spins in its hole, needs replacing ASAP! |
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Grade: 7b ***
(Trial Wall Area)