UKC

Rockfax Description
A brilliant exercise that tackles the severely leaning groove in the back of the cave. Can be extended up Surplomb de Ray (no change in grade). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This takes the obvious groove up the back of the main cave. Don't be put off by the sometimes damp holds at the start - the rest is fantastic. Start slightly left of the groove, moving up to gain the conglomerate ledge for a good hands off rest. From here some fancy footwork and a few big moves allow progress higher into the groove and (hopefully) to an intermediate belay where the angle eases. For an extra pump, and the full tick, continue up the recently-regeared No Epoxy Au Oxley to a higher belay.

Goi Ashmore 19/Apr/1996.

Ticklists

South Wales Sevens , Rockfax South Wales Top 50 , Becky's ticklist , The Road to 8a , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , Rockfax South Wales Top 45 , UK Flowstone , Steep UK Sport Routes , Recommended 7's 2021 , Steep! , 2025 Is The Year , ROCKFAX - South Wales Sport climbs 7b/+ Graded list

Feedback

User Date Notes
kateb-oxf 23 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The left-hand side bolt of the first anchor at the edge of the cave is a bit wobbly...! Needs replacing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left-hand side bolt of the first anchor at the edge of the cave is a bit wobbly...! Needs replacing!
igola 23 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Left bolt at first anchor continues to be wobbly – don't rely on it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left bolt at first anchor continues to be wobbly – don't rely on it!
j_duds 11 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: The left staple pin wobbles in the lower off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left staple pin wobbles in the lower off.
Behold81 21 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Love this route. However left pin on the first chains is moving and should not be relied on.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Love this route. However left pin on the first chains is moving and should not be relied on.
tomlangton 28 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Left pin on the first lower off is currently loose and spins in its hole, needs replacing ASAP!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left pin on the first lower off is currently loose and spins in its hole, needs replacing ASAP!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 78
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crime and Punishment

Grade: 7b ***
(Trial Wall Area)

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