Rockfax Description
A bold and intimidating route which is often soloed, although there is gear just below half-height. From a couple of moves up the corner trend left to a ledge (cams down and left), step back right, then climb the wall on small flakes until things ease. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1948.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Best slab climbs of the UK , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Hard Grit history , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , AMC Uni Ticklist , 50 of the Best , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , Extreme 2018 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , 2025 Benchmark
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
NCrossingham | 19 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Wicked route. Very serious. Gets E5 on egrader. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Wicked route. Very serious. Gets E5 on egrader. |
||||
agour | 24 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Flake near the top is very wobbly. Slight pressure and I felt it noticably move in my hand... Avoid it at all costs | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Flake near the top is very wobbly. Slight pressure and I felt it noticably move in my hand... Avoid it at all costs |
||||
Quintin | 28 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I also thought the hardest move was traversing from the corner to the ledge . Trust your feet moment . The move off the ledge is not too hard if you 6ft tall and above . Quality slab | ||
Show beta
βeta: I also thought the hardest move was traversing from the corner to the ledge . Trust your feet moment . The move off the ledge is not too hard if you 6ft tall and above . Quality slab |
||||
Pythonist | 1 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Low grade E2, but a wonderful experience of trusting smaller ledges for feet. 5b to get off the ledge, 5a to get on to it and bold 5a higher. Just keep telling yourself it's a slab... Could've sworn I've seen photos with gear in on the right-hand side of the ledge, but that seems to be impossible - the right-hand gear is in the corner (a long way away, or at least, that's how it feels). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Low grade E2, but a wonderful experience of trusting smaller ledges for feet. 5b to get off the ledge, 5a to get on to it and bold 5a higher. Just keep telling yourself it's a slab... Could've sworn I've seen photos with gear in on the right-hand side of the ledge, but that seems to be impossible - the right-hand gear is in the corner (a long way away, or at least, that's how it feels). |
||||
match | 20 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The direct start up the arete is a lovely piece of climbing, whether you carry on at E3 or no. If 'bouldering', the reversal of the traverse is fun :) Gear good, seen more folks lead it than solo. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The direct start up the arete is a lovely piece of climbing, whether you carry on at E3 or no. If 'bouldering', the reversal of the traverse is fun :) Gear good, seen more folks lead it than solo. |
||||
Andrew Barker | 9 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Spectacular! One of my favourite grit routes. Chock full of awesome moves and really makes you feel like a legend running it out above the gear. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Spectacular! One of my favourite grit routes. Chock full of awesome moves and really makes you feel like a legend running it out above the gear. |
||||
Si dH | 29 Jan, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought 5a/5b to start the traverse, hard 5b off the ledge then very scary 5a above that - bit heart in mouth! Lovely though. Definitely hardest of the 3 E2s I've done. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I thought 5a/5b to start the traverse, hard 5b off the ledge then very scary 5a above that - bit heart in mouth! Lovely though. Definitely hardest of the 3 E2s I've done. |
||||
thebigfriendlymoose | 1 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought the trickiest bit was gaining the ledge from the corner. The moves from the ledge were an absolute joy - balancey and technical with gear that i suspect would be just good enough (nut and cams). | ||
Show beta
βeta: I thought the trickiest bit was gaining the ledge from the corner. The moves from the ledge were an absolute joy - balancey and technical with gear that i suspect would be just good enough (nut and cams). |
||||
Andy Hobson | 22 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, I thought the crux was leaving the ledge but there are a few hard pulls after. It's all over fairly quickly though - unless you are foolish enough to step out onto the good foothold on the arete (like I did) where you will then realise that you have to go back and make one more tricky move to safety, well above the gear! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, I thought the crux was leaving the ledge but there are a few hard pulls after. It's all over fairly quickly though - unless you are foolish enough to step out onto the good foothold on the arete (like I did) where you will then realise that you have to go back and make one more tricky move to safety, well above the gear! |
||||
MNA123 | 21 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yeah i'll admit it i top roped it,but it was a piss wet through day and i still managed the direct start up the arete (with lots of slipping and sliding. Definately going back for the lead. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Yeah i'll admit it i top roped it,but it was a piss wet through day and i still managed the direct start up the arete (with lots of slipping and sliding. Definately going back for the lead. |
||||
Dave Emms | 1 Dec, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The gear just about protects the crux, so definitely worth leading. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The gear just about protects the crux, so definitely worth leading. |
||||
Chris the Tall | 19 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: It worth leading it, the gear at half-height is sufficient for the crux, and you can get more just before the top (where the rock can be friable) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It worth leading it, the gear at half-height is sufficient for the crux, and you can get more just before the top (where the rock can be friable) |
||||
Paul Boardman | 17 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Had the chance to second Max up this one. I agree, a very good climb. Nothing too scary (so long as you're comfortable with 5b moves way above your gear). But then it's easy to say that when you're seconding ;-) Nice one Max! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Had the chance to second Max up this one. I agree, a very good climb. Nothing too scary (so long as you're comfortable with 5b moves way above your gear). But then it's easy to say that when you're seconding ;-) Nice one Max! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)