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16m.

Rockfax Description
A bold and intimidating route which is often soloed, although there is gear just below half-height. From a couple of moves up the corner trend left to a ledge (cam runners down and left), step back right, then climb the wall on small flakes until things ease. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1948.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Best slab climbs of the UK, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Hard Grit history, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, AMC Uni Ticklist, 50 of the Best, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade, Extreme 2018, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Best of the rest and the ones that got away, Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets., An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 1 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Low grade E2, but a wonderful experience of trusting smaller ledges for feet. 5b to get off the ledge, 5a to get on to it and bold 5a higher. Just keep telling yourself it's a slab... Could've sworn I've seen photos with gear in on the right-hand side of the ledge, but that seems to be impossible - the right-hand gear is in the corner (a long way away, or at least, that's how it feels).
βeta?
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βeta: Low grade E2, but a wonderful experience of trusting smaller ledges for feet. 5b to get off the ledge, 5a to get on to it and bold 5a higher. Just keep telling yourself it's a slab... Could've sworn I've seen photos with gear in on the right-hand side of the ledge, but that seems to be impossible - the right-hand gear is in the corner (a long way away, or at least, that's how it feels).
match 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The direct start up the arete is a lovely piece of climbing, whether you carry on at E3 or no. If 'bouldering', the reversal of the traverse is fun :) Gear good, seen more folks lead it than solo.
 
Show beta
βeta: The direct start up the arete is a lovely piece of climbing, whether you carry on at E3 or no. If 'bouldering', the reversal of the traverse is fun :) Gear good, seen more folks lead it than solo.
Andrew Barker 9 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Spectacular! One of my favourite grit routes. Chock full of awesome moves and really makes you feel like a legend running it out above the gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Spectacular! One of my favourite grit routes. Chock full of awesome moves and really makes you feel like a legend running it out above the gear.
Si dH 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I thought 5a/5b to start the traverse, hard 5b off the ledge then very scary 5a above that - bit heart in mouth! Lovely though. Definitely hardest of the 3 E2s I've done.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought 5a/5b to start the traverse, hard 5b off the ledge then very scary 5a above that - bit heart in mouth! Lovely though. Definitely hardest of the 3 E2s I've done.
thebigfriendlymoose 1 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the trickiest bit was gaining the ledge from the corner. The moves from the ledge were an absolute joy - balancey and technical with gear that i suspect would be just good enough (nut and cams).
βeta?
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βeta: I thought the trickiest bit was gaining the ledge from the corner. The moves from the ledge were an absolute joy - balancey and technical with gear that i suspect would be just good enough (nut and cams).
Iggy_B 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My first E2 this side of the hills, all I remember is it being fairy easy for E2.
βeta?
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βeta: My first E2 this side of the hills, all I remember is it being fairy easy for E2.
Andy Hobson 22 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, I thought the crux was leaving the ledge but there are a few hard pulls after. It's all over fairly quickly though - unless you are foolish enough to step out onto the good foothold on the arete (like I did) where you will then realise that you have to go back and make one more tricky move to safety, well above the gear!
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent route, I thought the crux was leaving the ledge but there are a few hard pulls after. It's all over fairly quickly though - unless you are foolish enough to step out onto the good foothold on the arete (like I did) where you will then realise that you have to go back and make one more tricky move to safety, well above the gear!
MNA123 21 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah i'll admit it i top roped it,but it was a piss wet through day and i still managed the direct start up the arete (with lots of slipping and sliding. Definately going back for the lead.
βeta?
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βeta: Yeah i'll admit it i top roped it,but it was a piss wet through day and i still managed the direct start up the arete (with lots of slipping and sliding. Definately going back for the lead.
Dave Emms 1 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The gear just about protects the crux, so definitely worth leading.
βeta?
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βeta: The gear just about protects the crux, so definitely worth leading.
Chris the Tall 19 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It worth leading it, the gear at half-height is sufficient for the crux, and you can get more just before the top (where the rock can be friable)
βeta?
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βeta: It worth leading it, the gear at half-height is sufficient for the crux, and you can get more just before the top (where the rock can be friable)
Paul Boardman 17 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Had the chance to second Max up this one. I agree, a very good climb. Nothing too scary (so long as you're comfortable with 5b moves way above your gear). But then it's easy to say that when you're seconding ;-) Nice one Max!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Had the chance to second Max up this one. I agree, a very good climb. Nothing too scary (so long as you're comfortable with 5b moves way above your gear). But then it's easy to say that when you're seconding ;-) Nice one Max!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 216
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 218
Votes cast 208
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Insanity

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Curbar Edge)