Rockfax Description
100m. A classic line up both tiers, starting up the big corner right of centre of the lower tier. Low in the grade.
1. 25m 4a Bridge the chimney and corner (slow to dry), or rock on the left if wet. Belay on the left.
2. 20m 4b Gain and climb the prominent and exciting corner-crack to its top. Either belay or continue up the next pitch.
3. 20m 4a Continue to the terrace, reaching a point below an overhang at the far right end of the upper tier. Move right to a break in the overhang just round the corner of the front face.
4. 35m 4a Climb through the break and up a ramp, then move left and continue to easy ground below the final section of the Great Ridge.
4a. 45m 4c A much more exciting but harder finish pulls through the overhang on big holds at the right edge of the front face (crux, 5m left of the normal route) and climbs the face to a ledge (possible belay). Move out left to finish up the front face.
FA J.R.Marshall, A.H.Hendry, G.J.Ritchie, I.D.Haig, 15 Sep 1956 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
VS, 4b in the Glencoe Guide
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Grade: HS ***
(Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis)