Rockfax Description
55m. Above and right of the roof of The Clasp is a second roof. This route gains then traverses the lip of this upper roof, with some fine (or should that be scary!) situations. Start below the right end of the roof, at a groove with a yellow right wall (the easier groove on the right is Scimitar).
1. 20m 5a Climb the groove, moving right onto the rib. Go up steeply to easier rock and belay at the right end of a large ledge.
2. 15m 4c Traverse hard left above the lip of the roof to a steep corner. Climb this to its top and pull out left on to the flake edge. Step left to a ledge and belay.
2. 20m Go 5m left and up walls above to the top.
FA K.V.Crocket, C.Stead, 10 Jun 1972 © Rockfax
Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The V.S.+ Ticklist , A.P's summer , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition)
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)