Rockfax Description
A fine outing in the style. Start 6m left of Gideon, a few metres down from the apex of the scree/boulder cone.
1) 5b, 20m. Head up the seam that leads right of the ledge to a shot-hole. Either a very small tricam or folded medium wire provides some semblance of protection. Continue delicately up the slab with your heart in your mouth to reach a ledge and sapling - combined they almost give enough gear to belay off.
2) 5b, 60m. Move up to the fault-line of the Gideon traverse and head left along it for a few metres, until you are below a slim groove to the right of the chossy overlap. Place as much gear as you can here, skyhooks, microwires and anything else small you are carrying. Say a prayer and launch up the groove, then pad left to the main overlap via a large dimple. Move up the overlap to some wire placements. From here aim up and left of the apex of the slab, then finish direct up this. © Rockfax

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