Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A variation start to Gideon. Start just to the right of Wobbly Variations on a Slab below a vague left-facing groove.
1) 25m. Climb the groove. At 10m there is a runner on the left. Step left here and climb the crack to a ledge shared with Wobbly... Leave the ledge on the right, head up a crack to the overlap and move left to the perched block.
2) and 3) Finish up Gideon. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| neal | 15 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: As per the guide, first 10m felt pretty bold, some holds a bit friable. Certainly not low in the grade, tho gear is decent when you get to it. However, some really good climbing throughout, deserves at least 1 star. Ran together P1&2. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: As per the guide, first 10m felt pretty bold, some holds a bit friable. Certainly not low in the grade, tho gear is decent when you get to it. However, some really good climbing throughout, deserves at least 1 star. Ran together P1&2. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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Grey Arête
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Glyder Fawr)