Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A more direct and better version of Gideon.
1) 4c, 18m. As for the first pitch of Gideon. Climb to the vegetated ledge on the arete before the long traverse left.
2) 4c, 55m. Move up and left for 2m and gain the overlap via the rib. Follow this to a crack. Pad up the easy-angled slab, moving leftwards towards the top before the rock deteriorates, to gain the more solid slab left of the steep choss. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| neal | 13 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Guidebook says 2nd pitch is 57m, but was ok with 50m ropes. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Guidebook says 2nd pitch is 57m, but was ok with 50m ropes. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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Strapiombo
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))