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Climbs 102
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 525m a.s.l
Faces S

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'D' route on Gimmer © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Long routes of all grades on superb rock in a fantastic position. One of the best crags in the Lakes. Classics - Gimmer Chimney(VD), Bracket and Slab(MVS), A,B,C and D Routes(S), Oliversons(VD), Spring Bank(E2), Whits End Direct(E1), F Route(VS), Eastern Hammer(E3), Equus(E2), Kipling Groove(HVS), Ash Tree Slabs(VD), Intern(E1), NW Arete(VS), Asterisk(MVS), Gimmer String(E1), The Crack(VS), Dight(E1), Grand Finale(E1).

Approach notes

There are three main approaches;
From Stickle Barn NT car park take the main Dungeon Ghyll from the North end of the car park. Cross the gill after 500m and then continue for another 1km until you emerge on to an open plateau. Head west and when the path starts to rise again take a faint left track at a large cairn, the crag comes into view.
From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel take the path towards Raven crag as far as the gate in the new fence. Turn left & follow a slight track below the fence to a stile then zig zag up the scree. Continue in the same direction for 50m until a better defined path leads right then back left across an area of terraces. Continue diagonally left wards, into a ravine. Beyond this either head horizontally to the NW Face or upwards to the SE Face.
Alternatively follow Mickleden until you are below the crag, then head gruellingly upwards.

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Guidebooks

Lake District Climbs

Lake District Climbs provides comprehensive coverage of the very best traditional climbing in the mountains and valleys of English Lake District. The range and variety of climbing available is outstanding, from low-level single-pitch outcrop cragging to long multi-pitch mountain routes. There is something here for climbers of all abilities from experts to those just starting out.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lake District Rock (2015)
Langdale (2013)

Out of print:
Langdale (1999)
Langdale (1989)
Baffled by the star ratings given for routes on this crag by UKC. Why are classics such as 'D' Route and North-west Arete only given one star? They are 3 star routes in the FRCC guide, and I'm sure most who have climbed them would agree with this.
CathS - 25/Jul/11
No, the walk-in isn't a pain, it's a joy!
Rog Wilko - 01/Jun/10
One of the finest crags in the Lakes with loads of classic routes. The walkin is a pain, but if you solo Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag first (a polished Diff)and then traverse the hillside it makes it much nicer. Go there.
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

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