UKC

Rockfax Description
A route which will either leave you with a buzz for days or the need to lock yourself in a darkened room to overcome the trauma of the experience. It is adventurous and sustained and one of the hardest routes in this guide. Belays are hard to arrange with limited gear. The initial start is VDiff and feels harder than the Idwal Slab routes like Hope. To compound this, there is loose rock higher up where the climbing becomes a little easier. This is a route to save for a day when you are going well!
Approach - Follow the Indirect Start to Senior's Ridge or, for more scrambling, the Northwest Face Route. Carry on up and right to the lowest point of the buttress between East Gully and The High Pasture below an ominous barrel-like arete, just to the right of double quartz bands.
1) Move up and left below a smooth slab onto its delicate left-hand rib. Follow this, with some exposed and technical moves, to a small ledge with a quartz band.
2) Move to the right to gain a more central line on the buttress. Weave an intricate line up the centre aiming for a small pinnacle. Take care to pick out the best line on this section.
3) Once at the small pinnacle, climb direct over it. The hardest section of climbing is done now so you can relax a bit. From just above the pinnacle, go left up some much easier steps to the top.
Descent - Continue to the summit of Glyder Fawr and descend either reverse Glyder Fawr via The Devil's Kitchen or y Gribin - the latter is tricky in poor visibility. For a quicker descent, traverse right off the top towards Llyn y Cwn and descend The Devil's Kitchen from there. Alternatively, traverse left off the top to reach the top of Senior's Ridge at a slight rocky knoll and descend this. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , North Wales isnt just slate apparently

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Votes cast 7
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
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Route of Interest
Amphitheatre Buttress

Grade: VD ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)

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