UKC

81m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Delicate, sustained and excellent. The route is not well protected and is prone to seepage on the initial crack and upper crux - care required if at all damp, especially on the upper part of P2. Approach by following Indirect Start to Senior's Ridge to its traverse then continue direct to the base of the clean grey ribs.
1) 4a, 35m. Start up the main corner for 20m then trend left across the bubbly slab to a rib. Balance up this to a small stance and high belay under the overlap.
2) 4b, 40m. Climb through the bulge then move left and head up the vague rib on good holds to the overlap high above. Jig left and right through this and finish up the final slab, carefully avoiding any wetness. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Menlove Routes, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Snowdonia in Chains, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Jonesy's leg day ticklist, Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
runestone 3 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2. Loose small flake followed by loose small V shaped crack just after you pull over the bulge. And bold top section.
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2. Loose small flake followed by loose small V shaped crack just after you pull over the bulge. And bold top section.
dunky 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Only did the top pitch as we came up from grey rib
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only did the top pitch as we came up from grey rib

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Alt Leads
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Route of Interest

Oxine

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Wenallt)
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