Rockfax Description
Pleasant wall climbing protected by small wires. Start on the left of a rib. Step left and follow a line of pockets to mid-height. Move left to below a grey wall with a pockets in it. Climb up the pockets to a flake and head leftward on easier ground to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the wall just left of Necromancer to a break at 10m. Step left and follow a line of pockets to easy ground. Finish leftwards ( as for the original) or better, finish direct through the overhang. This adds some excellent final steep moves and means that the belay is directly above the whole route. Belay tree is a little way back.
R A Broomhead, A Burnham Jun/1980.
Bristol 1st E1s , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Dances with Goblins , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Goblin Combe
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 15 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Nice climbing. Hard to grade as I have done HVS' and another E1 which were both well harder. Generally, its a reachy and pays to be taller. Lots of micro wires is always a good shout, but never forget the torque at the top for a bomber belay. Generally pockets at the first crux which were secure and bomber. The second crux was cool. Nice way to finish | ||
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βeta: Nice climbing. Hard to grade as I have done HVS' and another E1 which were both well harder. Generally, its a reachy and pays to be taller. Lots of micro wires is always a good shout, but never forget the torque at the top for a bomber belay. Generally pockets at the first crux which were secure and bomber. The second crux was cool. Nice way to finish |
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ulbau | 29 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Careful with the direct finish: very chossy and lots of loose rubble on the top! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Careful with the direct finish: very chossy and lots of loose rubble on the top! |
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ClimbingNut | 1 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Suberp climbing with so much more gear that you can see from below. (unfortunately?) escapable to necromancer. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Suberp climbing with so much more gear that you can see from below. (unfortunately?) escapable to necromancer. |
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Steve Bartle | 26 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Micros (nuts) definitely needed, you won't place any medium-big gear | ||
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βeta: Micros (nuts) definitely needed, you won't place any medium-big gear |
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luke43 | 26 May, 2019 |
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βeta: large flake/hold (for the left hand then foot) at the start of the climb feels like it it about to part company with the crag, there are plenty of other options.. not quite as large! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: large flake/hold (for the left hand then foot) at the start of the climb feels like it it about to part company with the crag, there are plenty of other options.. not quite as large! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))