Rockfax Description
A pleasant route up the right of the slab. Start from a boulder below a steep groove, capped by an overhang, to the right of the first pitch of A Dream of White Horses.
1) 5a, 40m. Move right into a thin crack on the wall of the groove. Climb this over the bulge and continue up the crack in the slab to a good ledge and belay about 5 metres from the arete. If the lower pitch is avoided, the climb (at VS) is started from either the first stance of A Dream of White Horses or the high tide start ledge.
2) 4c, 15m. Continue up the slab to belay duty in a sentry box, about 6m below the abseil.
3) 5a, 46m. Climb the diagonal break of flakes leading up leftwards to below the small overhang. Make some awkward moves to the foot of the crack/groove on the left of the overhang and climb this direct to the top. © Rockfax

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