Rockfax Description
One of the best E2s on the Upper Tier, but expect adventurous climbing on lichen at the top of pitch 1. There is an abseil point here which can be used to avoid the poor upper section. The route follows the chimney and groove up the right-hand edge of the wall. Start in the chimney formed by the left edge of the Shag Rock pinnacle. Make some bold chimney moves up until it is possible to pull onto the main cliff just below a groove. Make a hard move up the groove to a sloping ledge. Move up again to where the groove turns into a sloping ramp and the lichen appears. Follow the groove to a spike on the left and summon up more courage to enter the continuation of the ramp/groove above using the wall on the right. This leads to a spike belay with a rusty old peg scar. There is a second pitch (5b) but the rock is poor so it is better to abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Nice route. P1 is run out from the start until you manage to get across from shag rock. Good gear is found next to the crux, in situ wire, then sustained bridging to a hanging spike belay. P2 is short but steep with bomber kit

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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