Rockfax Description
One of the top E5s in the UK. The pristine lower white wall has a thread which helps with route finding.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb up a short crack then break out left to gain wonderful pockets and pinches leading to a thread. Traverse left with difficulty, then up to gain the sentry box of Citadel and a no-hands rest. Climb up and right under the roof split by cracks. Arrange large cams and pull blindly over the roof on jams, undercuts and fins to easier ground. Belay on Main Wall.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb up then make a committing and exposed traverse right, aiming for a corner. Climb this to a ledge.
3) 5b, 15m. Climb cracks above the belay then step left to grooves which lead to the top. © Rockfax


Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Main Cliff Big E5s , Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces


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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 15
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Magellan's Wall

Grade: E5 6a ***

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