97m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A steep route with some interesting climbing which takes a direct line up the wall left of The Big Groove crossing Pentothal at half height. Start just right of the square block.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb over two small bulges into a short overhung corner, move up it until you run out of holds. Step right to a good spike and continue easily up the ramp on the right. Step left onto the lip of the overhangs and climb a short steep crack to a ledge. Step left again into a deep crack and climb this to join the last few feet of the second pitch of Pentothal.
2) 5c, 48m. Move right and step up to the foot of a bottomless corner and climb this to a good ledge (possible belay). Climb the short overhanging corner behind the belay to a sloping ledge. Climb the ragged crack above until it is possible to move left with difficulty to reach broken ground. Continue up a groove to a large ledge and spike belays.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb easily to the top. © Rockfax


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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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