Rockfax Description
A steep route with some interesting climbing which takes a direct line up the wall left of The Big Groove crossing Pentothal at half height. Start just right of the square block.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb over two small bulges into a short overhung corner, move up it until you run out of holds. Step right to a good spike and continue easily up the ramp on the right. Step left onto the lip of the overhangs and climb a short steep crack to a ledge. Step left again into a deep crack and climb this to join the last few feet of the second pitch of Pentothal.
2) 5c, 48m. Move right and step up to the foot of a bottomless corner and climb this to a good ledge (possible belay). Climb the short overhanging corner behind the belay to a sloping ledge. Climb the ragged crack above until it is possible to move left with difficulty to reach broken ground. Continue up a groove to a large ledge and spike belays.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb easily to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)