UKC

98m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Pentathol and Big Groove - p.§§§ This section can be badly effected by swell from the ferry so low tide is recommended.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the narrow and then wide crack on the left. Belay at the base of the wide chimney/crack on P2 of Pentathol - often some feisty nesting birds here.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb the chimney and move right on to the wall. Climb the wall aiming for the crack above which leads to the belay on a spike on Jaborandi.
3) 5b, 18m. As for the top of Jaborandi P2.
4) 4b, 22m. As for Jaborandi P3. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
mike_doodle 28 Aug, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: Worth noting there are currently inconsistencies over the line/grade of P1 (in GU Gogarth North guide vs. GU's Main Cliff poster vs. the online wiki) - somewhere between E1 and E2/3. Would recommend following the line as described in the GU guide (taking the left hand vertical crack directly below the “red rock overlap”) but consider it E2/3 not E1. Good though. Also, the belay at top of P1 which is at the first “old slings over a large spike” that you come to - much better to continue up the crack above (the 5a part of P2) for 5m and belay at a better spike stance that's hard to see from below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth noting there are currently inconsistencies over the line/grade of P1 (in GU Gogarth North guide vs. GU's Main Cliff poster vs. the online wiki) - somewhere between E1 and E2/3. Would recommend following the line as described in the GU guide (taking the left hand vertical crack directly below the “red rock overlap”) but consider it E2/3 not E1. Good though. Also, the belay at top of P1 which is at the first “old slings over a large spike” that you come to - much better to continue up the crack above (the 5a part of P2) for 5m and belay at a better spike stance that's hard to see from below.

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 3
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Strand

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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