A stunning, previously neglected route that wanders its way through some of the most spectacular terrain, with good gear and holds throughout. Start up The Big Groove.
1) 5b, 60m. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Move up this to where The Big Groove goes left. Carry on direct to reach a flake-line leading right to join Sebastopol. Follow this up a stepped flake and move up and right to the Citadel belay.
2) 5b, 40m. Traverse right into Mammoth. Head up this briefly before breaking out across the Wall of Fossils (with feet in the diagonal break) to join the groove of Dinosaur. Romp up the last jugs of this to a large ledge and belay.
3) Escape up Cordon Bleau, or if you have 5c in your arms, then straight up the final pitch of Dinosaur. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
AKA Mona Complex. Originally climbed as Mona Complex in the 1980's. P1 5b: 50m Starting as for Big Groove, follow this first pitch to where it climbs the corner but keep going to across a small ledge to an independent corner system climb with difficulty then continue the rising traverse to the Citadel/hunger belay. P2, 5b 40m Traverse to Mammoth, climb a rising traverse using the obvious break for your feet until you get to Dinosaur, climb this to the belay. P3/4 5b Finish up the last pitches of Corden Bleau or finish up the last pitch of Dinosaur(5c).
A. Stephenson and A. Park . FA as described: Tim Neill and Calum Muskett in 2014 16/Jun/1984.
The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Gogarth life list
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