140m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning, previously neglected route that wanders its way through some of the most spectacular terrain, with good gear and holds throughout. Start up The Big Groove.
1) 5b, 60m. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Move up this to where The Big Groove goes left. Carry on direct to reach a flake-line leading right to join Sebastopol. Follow this up a stepped flake and move up and right to the Citadel belay.
2) 5b, 40m. Traverse right into Mammoth. Head up this briefly before breaking out across the Wall of Fossils (with feet in the diagonal break) to join the groove of Dinosaur. Romp up the last jugs of this to a large ledge and belay.
3) Escape up Cordon Bleau, or if you have 5c in your arms, then straight up the final pitch of Dinosaur. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
AKA Mona Complex. Originally climbed as Mona Complex in the 1980's. P1 5b: 50m Starting as for Big Groove, follow this first pitch to where it climbs the corner but keep going to across a small ledge to an independent corner system climb with difficulty then continue the rising traverse to the Citadel/hunger belay. P2, 5b 40m Traverse to Mammoth, climb a rising traverse using the obvious break for your feet until you get to Dinosaur, climb this to the belay. P3/4 5b Finish up the last pitches of Corden Bleau or finish up the last pitch of Dinosaur(5c).

A. Stephenson and A. Park . FA as described: Tim Neill and Calum Muskett in 2014 16/Jun/1984.


The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Gogarth life list


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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest

Grade: E2 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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