UKC Logbook - 'The Big Groove Direct'

30m. A much better 3rd pitch and the obvious line From the 2nd stance climb the clean continuation corner and upper groove. A 3 star alternative...and a better finishing pitch than the original.
As for Big groove , Pitch 1 & 2
3.35m. 5c/6a After the crux pitch of this route take the more direct continuation corner groove/wall. (The original avoids this by taking the crumbling groove/crack out L). Climb the steep wall/corner to a protruding block (fragile and possibly missing; The guidebook description (and most other sources) describe a creaky flake on the main pitch of TBGD at, I reckon, about 6m height. This definately wasn't there on friday and the two cruxes before the crack doglegs back into the groove both felt 6a maybe even soft 6b?? The route's still totally safe (with plenty of rp4s and rock 1s) and not very pumpy, at least not on the arms. Alex Mason, 6th March 2012). Continue up using flakey, but solid, holds to a small ledge on the arete and follow the continuation crack into the corner. Pull up and bear rightwards into a groove which is followed over a bulge to belay on easier ground.
4. The usual Main Cliff plod follows.

Ed Ward Drummond and Ben Campbell Kelly 1969.

Ticklists

Ultimate E4 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist

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User	Date		Notes
middlevern	21 Aug, 2009	Show βeta βeta: Led p2 and 3 together. Unbelievably sustained, and climbed in mistake for Big Groove. That said, probably the best single pitch I have done ever. For reference, 50 metre ropes just reach the belay when p2 and 3 are done together. A monster pitch.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Led p2 and 3 together. Unbelievably sustained, and climbed in mistake for Big Groove. That said, probably the best single pitch I have done ever. For reference, 50 metre ropes just reach the belay when p2 and 3 are done together. A monster pitch.