UKC

88m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another of the Main Cliff's big E5s. Start at a left-facing corner just beyond the start of Dinosaur on the sea-level approach, just right of the parallel chimney of Mammoth Direct.
1) 6b, 35m. Move up the corner, which gets harder the higher you go. At the roof, make a sustained traverse left to a rest on the arete. Commit to heading up to a pocket, peg, and try not to linger too long as the crux is reaching the niche above and a semi-rest on good undercuts. From here, power up the fins to the left of a red-coloured groove to reach a small ledge. Belay on the right.
2) 5c, 25m. Move right and climb the rib of the vague groove, until you can move back left into it by a peg. Carry on up the sustained groove and into a narrow left-facing corner, which leads to the spacious ledge of Dinosaur and Positron.
3) 5c, 30m. As for P3 of Dinosaur. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Main Cliff Big E5s , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , North Wales E5s

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

30 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 9
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Magellan's Wall

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Rhoscolyn)

Loading Notifications...