Rockfax Description
Another of the Main Cliff's big E5s. Start at a left-facing corner just beyond the start of Dinosaur on the sea-level approach, just right of the parallel chimney of Mammoth Direct.
1) 6b, 35m. Move up the corner, which gets harder the higher you go. At the roof, make a sustained traverse left to a rest on the arete. Commit to heading up to a pocket, peg, and try not to linger too long as the crux is reaching the niche above and a semi-rest on good undercuts. From here, power up the fins to the left of a red-coloured groove to reach a small ledge. Belay on the right.
2) 5c, 25m. Move right and climb the rib of the vague groove, until you can move back left into it by a peg. Carry on up the sustained groove and into a narrow left-facing corner, which leads to the spacious ledge of Dinosaur and Positron.
3) 5c, 30m. As for P3 of Dinosaur. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Main Cliff Big E5s , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , North Wales E5s
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Rhoscolyn)