62m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route, and probably the most coveted E5 on the Main Cliff. The third pitch is a totally 'out there' experience that will live with you for a long time. Start at ledges 18m past the Gogarth pinnacle, just right of an arete and where the higher platform drops in height.
1) 5c, 20m. Move up and right into a scoop, then traverse back left to a small ear-like flake. Head up and slightly left to a ramp and follow it left to the arete. Arrange what gear you can and make a hard pull over a bulge to reach easier ground and a belay below the chimney groove of The Rat Race.
2) 6a, 15m. Move up into the chimney/groove as for The Rat Race and arrange some high runners. Drop back down and make a dramatic traverse left on sloping holds and pinches to the arete. Pull round on a nipple of rock and somehow gain the groove on Alien. Follow this more easily to reach the belay below the horrid looking chimney on The Rat Race.
3) 6a, 30m. An amazing pitch. From the belay, move out left onto a spike in the rib. Launch up the diagonal crack soaring across an imposing headwall, first below it, then making a hard transition to above it. Traverse out left below an overlap and make a strenuous move over the left-hand end of it. Carry on up easier ground until you can step left into the groove of Dinosaur and bridge up this to a belay on a spacious ledge.
4) 5c, 30m. Finish up Dinosaur or Cordon Bleau. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
According to Alex Sharpe this was 'an extremely strenuous and sustained route up very steep rock. The top pitch is phenomenally impressive and is one of the hardest routes at Gogarth'. In fact it is a little disjointed, pitch 2 being short and artificial. Pitch 3 is the highlight. Stevie Haston soloed this years ago.

Alan Rouse and Peter Minks. FFA Alex Sharpe. Mar/1971.


Extreme Rock , Top five E5s , Very good routes in the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Main Cliff Big E5s , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , UK Lonely Leads , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E5 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , CUMC First Ascents , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , 30 For My 30s , Post Quarantine Blowout , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , North Wales E5s


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 34
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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