An amazing route, and probably the most coveted E5 on the Main Cliff. The third pitch is a totally 'out there' experience that will live with you for a long time. Start at ledges 18m past the Gogarth pinnacle, just right of an arete and where the higher platform drops in height.
1) 5c, 20m. Move up and right into a scoop, then traverse back left to a small ear-like flake. From here, head up and slightly left to a ramp, and follow it left to the arete. Arrange what gear you can and make a crux pull over a bulge to reach easier ground and a belay below the chimney groove of The Rat Race.
2) 6a, 15m. Move up into the chimney/groove as for The Rat Race and arrange some high runners. Move down and make a dramatic traverse left on sloping holds and pinches to the arete. Pull round on a nipple of rock, and somehow gain the groove. Follow this more easily to reach the shared belay below the horrid looking chimney on The Rat Race.
3) 6a, 30m. An amazing pitch. From the belay, move out left onto a spike in the rib. From here, you can see a diagonal crack soaring across an imposing headwall. Climb the crack, first below it, then making a hard transition to above it. Eventually you can traverse out left below an overlap and make a strenuous move over the left-hand end of it. Carry on up easier ground until you can step left into the groove of Dinosaur and bridge up this to a belay on a spacious ledge.
4) Finish up Dinosaur (previous page) or Cordon Bleau. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
According to Alex Sharpe this was 'an extremely strenuous and sustained route up very steep rock. The top pitch is phenomenally impressive and is one of the hardest routes at Gogarth'. In fact it is a little disjointed, pitch 2 being short and artificial. Pitch 3 is the highlight. Stevie Haston soloed this years ago.
Alan Rouse and Peter Minks. FFA Alex Sharpe. Mar/1971.
Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Very good routes in the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Main Cliff Big E5s, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E5 ticklist, James' Summer Ticklist, CUMC First Ascents, Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list, Wales Ticklist, 30 For My 30s, Post Quarantine Blowout
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents