Rockfax Description
The route that needs more than a little umph! Start from the base of the slanting chimney as for Mordor.
1) 20m, 6b. Climb up the left wall of the zawn for about 6m until opposite a collection of jugs. Head up a little further to place some runner above your head and then 'turbo-glide' (jump) across the zawn. Go around the overhanging arete and belay.
2) 45m, 5b. Pull over the roof at the easy left-hand side (Roof Rack, E7 tackles the right-hand side) and traverse right to a good crack. Climb up this, passing some dodgy rock in places. © Rockfax
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)