Rockfax Description
A good introduction to the Main Cliff E5s. The name comes from the long neck and a small brain you'll need for this route. Start beneath the right-hand chimney.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the chimney to where it closes at a steepening. Jam up the short crack (and jam some gear in!) and leave the recess making a hard move to gain the wall on the left. A couple more moves lead to gear and easier climbing which then leads to a small stance.
2) 5c, 30m. Step right into the steep groove, and climb this on reasonable but somewhat creaky holds to good ledges.
3) 5c, 30m. Another creaky pitch that is steep and committing. From the belay, head up and right to reach a short steep wall, climb this to reach the blank corner. Move out right to climb some grooves on the arete, exiting up a shallow groove on the left. Scramble well up the slope to belay on a small rock wall over on the left. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Main Cliff Big E5s, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist.

Hidden 08/Jul AltLd G/U
Tom Livingstone 07/Jul AltLd rpt

Fell off seconding P1. Dripping with grease and drizzling.

Hidden ??/2017 -
Misha 16/Jul/16 AltLd

What a beast! Took the Pterodactyl variation - the flying dinosaur. Chimney crack groove thing was ok, intimidating and a bit damp but good holds / jams and only about E2/3. Decent but awkward rest in the niche. Took and placed a cam 5 but a cam 2 was sufficient, in fact three cam 2s wouldn't go amiss for the pitch and there was a 3 just after the crux. Lots of time patching up and having a look around from the niche. I ended up moving left from a hand jam above the niche, using a chalked up mini jug as a foothold. Committing as it's exposed and blind moving across and up. Finally went for it, thinking the holds were going to improve as promised by the guide book but they werefull on Gogarth slopey pinches! Pumped out and fell off - big flyer but safe as it's into space. Ended up a fair way down but right next to the chimney thing. Climbed back up, more awkward rest psyching up, went for it, got further, slapped for what I though was a decent hold but wasn't and fell off again. Third go though I would fall off again but went for a different hold, which turned out to be ok. Still a few tricky moves after that before a rest. Eve quickly led the second pitch, which turned out to be pretty hard, about E3 5c. Slightly overhanging, some good holds but they all look suspicious, though in fact they're fine. Caught up with Phil and Mark who were on the last pitch, topping out from Main Wall. Decided to ab off to do another route. Stupidly I didn't clip into the face on the way down and ended up about a metre away from the rock, had to an in super low and paddle with one hand to grab the rock! Did Gogarth after that, could have just topped out and walked round...

with Eve
eel 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Misha
FlavioL1989 03/Jul/16 AltLd G/U

Did the crux pitch, greasy and a stupid slip without warning after the jam. Lowered to the ground and did it second go, not in best style, maybe a sign of my brain getting smaller. 2nd E5 in a day!

MichaelGallimore 03/Jun/16 AltLd dog

Did the jamming move ok, but couldn't hold the slopers afterwards, even after hanging on the rope and trying loads of times. I'd blame the sea clag, only Flavio led it just fine. It was extremely greasy. Superb route. I led p2 and p3. P3 was occupied by a team finishing skinhead. We went left and climbed a double flake crack in the dark. Late finish.

markalmack 14/May/16 AltLd RP

Fell off few times on greasing off the crux. I went across left a bit higher than all the photos, and it felt hard. Linked into the second pitch by accident.

WB 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

Mark did the main pitch and a bit and we took far to many clothes which made the whole experience that little more interesting.

belay bunny turned bad 04/May/16 2nd
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
dan gibson 11/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with alice thompson
malx 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Last of the big five. Fun route!

NDD 20/Jun/15 2nd

P1 only.

with tony stone
nathanlee 20/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led p1/p3. Spent ages under the overlap getting increasingly hot and bothered and then had to try really hard on the moves out left. The 4c moves to the belay felt hard with no chalk, killer rope drag and unshakable death pump!

with Katy Whittacker
will9911 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Tony Madden
pete johnson 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Failed on 1st pitch. Steve led it. Found it very hard even to second.

Steve Long 07/Sep/14 Lead G/U

This one is usually greasy at the crux section! Aided crux in 1983 (all pegs disintegrated!) Various attempts since then. Finally climbed it clean, but its a blind and tricky crux traverse. Don't go too low...!

Hidden 28/Jun/14 AltLd dog
Tom Livingstone 31/May/14 Lead G/U

Ground up. Had tried this with Henry a few days previously but thwarted by terrible conditions. Slightly easier today but still very greasy and seeping - should have waited for better connies really. Fantastic crux and 'spooky' P2. Fairly sure I could have onsighted this but oh well. Led P1 and P3

with Jack Lawledge
Glyn 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Epic route!

with Luke
Luke Brooks 18/Apr/14 AltLd
with Glyn Hudson
Owain Llewelyn 03/Aug/13 AltLd
with Gareth E
soph 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

very wet and greasy - fun!

with Helena Robinson
Alex Mason 09/Apr/13 Lead β

Fell off at crux 2 years ago. Felt good to smash it today in super greasy conditions. Groove pitch is an ace E2/3 5b.

with Fingers
switch 29/Jul/12 Lead rpt

just a couple of greasy holds near the top of the chimney. thought the 2nd pitch was worth e3 on its own.

with Pete M
mwatson 25/Feb/12 Lead dnf

wet and slippy

with johnny
Jack Geldard ??/2012 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 Lead

Ground up. Greasy conditions.

with Sam Underhill
Brown 13/Oct/10 AltLd RP

I attempted pitch one and fell off near the top and lowered off. James got it clean next go.

with James T
Toby Dunn 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
Rich Kirby 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Craig Smith
The old James turnbull ??/2010 Lead
with dave brown
Hidden ??/2009 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 29/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Andy Cave & Pete Robins
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Nic Sellers
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S


with Viv
Steve Crowe 04/May/02 Lead O/S

A bit smeggy today, only just made it on sight!

with KM
Hidden 26/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/99 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 27/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
Steve Walker ??/1993 AltLd

fell off the first pitch after going straight up past the traverse right. Should have read the guide lol.

with stuart muir
Hidden 28/May/90 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
with Ian Fenton
Mike Owen 24/May/89 AltLd O/S

I led the 1st pitch and Dunc led the 2nd.

with Duncan Potter
Bob 27/Aug/88 AltLd O/S

Al led the main first pitch, I got the weird second one.

with al phizacklea
Paul Clarke ??/1988 AltLd
with Paul Greenland
jon 05/Jul/87 Lead
with H
keefe 05/Jul/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
petemeads ?/Jul/75 Lead dnf

Lead the first pitch with the standard aid of the time (and hated it) - Mick used the same situ sling and swung into space as it broke! Second pitch looked desperate & we were both spooked - decided to give up (and secretly never wanted to return).

with Mick Brady
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 7
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set