Rockfax Description
Features some great open face climbing on pitch 2. Start at the foot of the left-hand of three cracks.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb steeply up the flared crack then head off rightwards, avoiding the big crack. Climb the wall to its right to gain a small sloping ledge with a couple of rotting pegs.
2) 5c, 40m. Go up the wall left of the belay and move up and left through a steep section (peg), then move right to big footholds. Head back left to the base of the wall with a thin crack (spikes). The wall is steep, but small sharp holds allow progress to a point where a span out left gains the sloping left arete. Climbing direct up the wall is much harder and reachy (6a ). A sloping ledge is reached and the cracks above lead directly to two large spikes below the final crack of P3.
3) 5a, 40m. Race up the fine left-hand crack to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)