Rockfax Description
Brilliant climbing, at the top end of E3 but well protected.
1) 5b, 30m. Start just left of the arete, and blast up the steep crack, which quickly eases. The corner above leads to the belay ledge, with a tricky-ish move at the top.
2) 5c, 35m. Step off the right edge of the belay ledge with great exposure but loads of bomber kit. Storm up the awesome crack with great gear and big holds. The final steep bit is tough for a couple of moves with some wild laybacking. Land on the ledge and squirm up the wide crack above (big cam useful), before a short, easy, slightly loose bit leads to a big belay ledge.
3) 4c, 20m. The left-hand crack in the wall gives nice climbing. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
High in the grade. Sustained 2nd pitch.
Ultimate E3 ticklist , Gogarth life list
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)