Rockfax Description
The first E7 in the UK goes up the wall right of The Cad after starting up that route. It is very bold and serious. Follow The Cad up the initial shallow groove to surmount the small overlap and gain a reasonable spike runner in the wall above. Traverse horizontally right on the lip of the overlap to a good resting position near the right arete of the wall. Above are two peg runners in a vertical crack - this is what you are aiming for. Climb the wall with difficulty. The pegs are easier to clip if there is a sling on them - without this you have to climb past the crux. Continue up the slightly easier wall above until a traverse rightwards leads to a no-hands rest on a ledge on the arete. The crack/groove in the arete leads in a very serious position to a sloping ledge and then the top, with much relief. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 100 Worthwhile E7's , ... And One For The Crow

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