A great route, with some exciting climbing up the big groove bounding the left side of the steeper section of the Main Cliff. Micro wires are essential. Start 8m right of a prominent square block on the sea-level traverse, and underneath a vague line of flakes trending rightwards. This section of cliff can be badly affected by swell from the ferry, so low tide recommended.
1) 5b, 42m. As for Pentathol P1. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Climb this and then move left into another left-facing corner which leads to a ledge on the right (the Pentathol P1 belay). A short corner above leads to the end of a huge sloping ledge with a belay over on its right-hand end.
2) 5c, 20m. Move over to the left-hand end of the ledge and climb over the bulge into a corner. Head up and right to a sloping ledge at the bottom of the main groove. Head up and right with difficulty to gain and follow the steep groove past a rock scar. Micro wires and a steady head are required to get through this section and gain the belay on the left.
3) 5a, 34m. Move left into yet another corner, which is sustained. A tricky exit at the top of the groove leads to a good stance around the arete on the left.
4) 15m. Easy scrambling leads up behind the stance to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
2018 update Possibly E4 after the loss of the large flake..
Peter Crew and Dave Alcock (1 pt aid) 1966.
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