UKC

105m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route, with some exciting climbing up the big groove bounding the left side of the steeper section of the Main Cliff. Start 8m right of a prominent square block on the sea-level traverse, and underneath a vague line of flakes trending rightwards.
1) 5b, 42m. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Climb this for few metres and then move left into another left-facing corner which leads to a ledge on the right (the Pentathol belay). A short corner above leads to the end of a huge sloping ledge with a belay over on its right-hand end.
2) 5c, 20m. Move over to the left-hand end of the ledge and climb over the bulge into a corner. Head up and right to a sloping ledge at the bottom of the main groove. Head up and right with difficulty to gain and follow the steep groove and continuation crack formed by a large flake on the right wall. From the top of the flake, make a desperate pull onto a sloping ledge and belay. 3) 5a, 34m. Move left into yet another corner, which is sustained. A tricky exit at the top of the groove leads to a good stance around the arete on the left.
4) 15m. Easy climbing/scrambling leads up behind the stance to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
2018 update Possibly E4 after the loss of the large flake..

Peter Crew and Dave Alcock (1 pt aid) 1966.

Ticklists

Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, 30 For My 30s, BMG Application Rock (Unofficial), Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock 2020, Gogarth life list

Feedback

User Date Notes
friendzone1234 22 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lost rock paper scissors and did the 5b pitch and easier pitch after the 5c crux pitch. Amazing line if you like wide things
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lost rock paper scissors and did the 5b pitch and easier pitch after the 5c crux pitch. Amazing line if you like wide things
Andy Moles 16 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Crux pitch now feels E4 6a and bold. There is still a fair bit of dirt and some loose shards where the flake was, but it's avoidable with a bit of care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crux pitch now feels E4 6a and bold. There is still a fair bit of dirt and some loose shards where the flake was, but it's avoidable with a bit of care.

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High E4
Mid E4
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
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Votes cast 39
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wonderwall

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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