UKC Logbook - 'The Big Groove'

105m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route, with some exciting climbing up the big groove bounding the left side of the steeper section of the Main Cliff. Micro wires are essential. Start 8m right of a prominent square block on the sea-level traverse, and underneath a vague line of flakes trending rightwards. This section of cliff can be badly affected by swell from the ferry, so low tide recommended.
1) 5b, 42m. As for Pentathol P1. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Climb this and then move left into another left-facing corner which leads to a ledge on the right (the Pentathol P1 belay). A short corner above leads to the end of a huge sloping ledge with a belay over on its right-hand end.
2) 5c, 20m. Move over to the left-hand end of the ledge and climb over the bulge into a corner. Head up and right to a sloping ledge at the bottom of the main groove. Head up and right with difficulty to gain and follow the steep groove past a rock scar. Micro wires and a steady head are required to get through this section and gain the belay on the left.
3) 5a, 34m. Move left into yet another corner, which is sustained. A tricky exit at the top of the groove leads to a good stance around the arete on the left.
4) 15m. Easy scrambling leads up behind the stance to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
2018 update Possibly E4 after the loss of the large flake..

Peter Crew and Dave Alcock (1 pt aid) 1966.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , 30 For My 30s , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock 2020 , Gogarth life list , North Wales To Do List

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User	Date		Notes
D.Russell	7 Jul, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Bold e4 5c, there’s still a loose spike at the top of the groove before pulling into the pod. RPs are essential.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Bold e4 5c, there’s still a loose spike at the top of the groove before pulling into the pod. RPs are essential.
JELawrence	1 Jul, 2022	Show βeta βeta: As others have said, the flake has gone from pitch 2. Pitch now feels quite bold with some loose rock still around. Micro wires seemed pretty essential.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: As others have said, the flake has gone from pitch 2. Pitch now feels quite bold with some loose rock still around. Micro wires seemed pretty essential.
friendzone1234	22 Feb, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Lost rock paper scissors and did the 5b pitch and easier pitch after the 5c crux pitch. Amazing line if you like wide things	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Lost rock paper scissors and did the 5b pitch and easier pitch after the 5c crux pitch. Amazing line if you like wide things
Andy Moles	16 Aug, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Crux pitch now feels E4 6a and bold. There is still a fair bit of dirt and some loose shards where the flake was, but it's avoidable with a bit of care.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Crux pitch now feels E4 6a and bold. There is still a fair bit of dirt and some loose shards where the flake was, but it's avoidable with a bit of care.