60m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing up the crack Spider Wall avoids.
1) 5b, 40m. Start as for Britomartis. Follow Spider Wall up left across the steep wall to reach the base of a steep straight crack above the arch. Climb the crack to the Britomartis belay.
2) 5b, 25m. Continue carefully up the crack to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the ledge at the base of britomartis swing out onto the wall to the left of the crack of that route and traverse left in an increasingly upward manner for approx 30 ft until an open blind vertical crack/weakness is reached, climb this on positive holds, (crimps, layaways and all sorts) and with excellent protection until in another 30ft the wall steepens and the holds reduce in size a little at a small bulge/overlap, surmount this and continue more easily to the belay about 15 ft above.
No info on pitch 2.
A superb route, spacey position, excellent rock, good runners, positive holds and so steep if you fall off it you'll not hit anything and even if you solo'd it you'd fall into the sea, only reason it gets E2 is because of the exposure, worth 3 stars!

G.Gibson, D.Beetlestone 03/Apr/1980.


North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.


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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 36
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Main Wall

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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