An excellent route with two contrasting pitches: one steep and burly, the other more balancy and delicate. Start by abseiling from the far right-hand end of the promontory (looking out) to a square-cut ledge that is usually a good distance above the swell. Make a belay that overlooks the North Stack wall.
1) 4c, 35m. From the belay, move down and left to gain a steep but juggy flake/crack-line. Storm up this on ample holds to reach a small stance on rotten pegs and small wires.
2) 4c, 20m. Step up and right, pulling over a bulge to reach a ledge. Follow the good footholds round to the right to finish up an easy groove. © Rockfax
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