UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The striking cracks in the towering wall. Sadly the approach pitch is poor but the final crack is worth the effort. Scramble up to a good ledge below a short wall.
1) 5b, 30m. Go up a short easy groove then move left around the arete. Move down slightly to gain the corner on the left. Climb this to a stance and block belay (slings) on the left.
2) 5c, 36m. Move to the left and climb the crack in the corner. Where the crack divides, follow the left branch. At a small overhang, move left then step back right following cracks to the final off-width. Layback or thrutch, it's your choice! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Awesome route with a big man eating offwidth at the top. First pitch is worth E2 5b with tough moves and average gear. Second is also worth E2 5b up until the off width. There is a rest before the top, and you'll probably want to spend as long as possible on it.

Joe Brown.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , Wide Cracks , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , The Road to Shibboleth , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Thrutch and Clutch , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , UK road to wide crack mastery , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime

Feedback

User Date Notes
Martin Cooper 5 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Slight drizzle at the top didn't help. It certainly didn't for Stan as it was increasingly moist. Top crack took Dragon 8 and would have taken Dragon 7 if I'd brought it with me!
Show beta
βeta: Slight drizzle at the top didn't help. It certainly didn't for Stan as it was increasingly moist. Top crack took Dragon 8 and would have taken Dragon 7 if I'd brought it with me!
andi turner 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Used my knees in the upper crack, which held fast, but limited upward progression. A size 6 cam fits well, a 7 might also, an 8 doesn't!
Show beta
βeta: Used my knees in the upper crack, which held fast, but limited upward progression. A size 6 cam fits well, a 7 might also, an 8 doesn't!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 34
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Sun

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)

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