Rockfax Description
Slight, but worth doing for the situation. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil, where the promontory abuts the crag at a large blunt spike.
1) 5b, 37m. Make a frightening traverse left off the spike to a groove that leads up to a tiny ledge. Climb the left arete of the groove above to another ledge. Shuffle left and head up and left to a detached flake passing a peg. The top of the flake is gained by a semi-mantle move, the peg just above the flake is obvious from the promontory. Climb a line of weakness up and right to a small overlap and step right into a niche below a steep crack. Follow the crack above to a good ledge. Belay further back on a grassy ramp.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the grassy ramp to the shoulder and a junction with Deygo. Move up a slab rightwards to gain a groove and finish up this. © Rockfax


Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , The Road to Shibboleth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List


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Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 41
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Breaking the Barrier

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Holyhead Mountain)

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