Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
A great route following an intricate line by combining the best bits of three other routes. Start below the corner that runs down from the right-hand end of the half-height ledge.
1) 5a, 28m. Ascend the corner to the half-height ledge.
2) 5b, 28m. Descend the corner to a break then hand traverse, with much interest, for just over 10m until you are forced to head upwards. The wall above is thin and technical at first, but soon eases. Good holds lead up and right to a belay.
3) 5b, 30m. Move up to the break-line. Shuffle left to where the overlap is narrowest and move over onto the wall above. Dance rightwards along the lip for a few moves then climb up and right, aiming for a finishing groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1 5a 28m To reach the start, either abseil directly down the corner, or traverse round the ledge at the base of Rap. The corner provides a superb, sustained pitch leading to the right hand side of the platform.
Pitch 2 5b 30m Drop back down the corner for 3m, then foot-shuffle rightwards along the break for a few meters, before dropping down and hand-traversing out right to the rest at 12m. The wall above is difficult at first, but it gradually eases as a leftward trending line of better holds takes you across to a belay beneath the overhang.
Pitch 3 5b 34m Break through the overhang where it narrows on the left, to gain a small groove. Traverse right on the lip of the overhang for a few meters, then head up and diagonally rightwards, eventually finishing up an easy groove.
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