Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.


A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 


92m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route following an intricate line by combining the best bits of three other routes. Start below the corner that runs down from the right-hand end of the half-height ledge.
1) 5a, 28m. Ascend the corner to the half-height ledge.
2) 5b, 28m. Descend the corner to a break then hand traverse, with much interest, for just over 10m until you are forced to head upwards. The wall above is thin and technical at first, but soon eases. Good holds lead up and right to a belay.
3) 5b, 30m. Move up to the break-line. Shuffle left to where the overlap is narrowest and move over onto the wall above. Dance rightwards along the lip for a few moves then climb up and right, aiming for a finishing groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1 5a 28m To reach the start, either abseil directly down the corner, or traverse round the ledge at the base of Rap. The corner provides a superb, sustained pitch leading to the right hand side of the platform.
Pitch 2 5b 30m Drop back down the corner for 3m, then foot-shuffle rightwards along the break for a few meters, before dropping down and hand-traversing out right to the rest at 12m. The wall above is difficult at first, but it gradually eases as a leftward trending line of better holds takes you across to a belay beneath the overhang.
Pitch 3 5b 34m Break through the overhang where it narrows on the left, to gain a small groove. Traverse right on the lip of the overhang for a few meters, then head up and diagonally rightwards, eventually finishing up an easy groove.


North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Extreme 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , Adventure ticklist 2018 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Hard Rock & Other Classics , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3


There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

411 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 80 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 68
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 63
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Resolution Direct

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

Loading Notifications...