Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 


A line based on the arête between the top grooves of The Cow and Ludwig. Strenuous climbing on an awesome position, though escapable at times.
1. 20m 5a Ludwig p1.
2. 25m 5c. Climb up a sandy wall, to the right of Ludwig, to a ledge. Go up to an undercut flaky crack then strenuously pull up and slightly left to meet The Cow. Follow this to the belay.
3. 30m 6b. Follow Ludwig round onto the red hanging slab then step right to beneath the overhanging arête. Pull over the bulge to gain a sandy break which leads wildly up the arête to better holds and a rest in a fine position. Carry on up on crumbly holds to join Ludwig at the top
Mike Twid Turner, Pete Robins (AL) 20 May 2004.


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Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Crow Road

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Trearddur Bay)

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