UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Another Yellow Wall classic that finishes up the bottomless overhanging groove above the traverse of The Moon.
1. 20m. 5a. Follow the highest traverse line to belay below and right of a cave/overhang in the wall above, just over halfway to the promontory of The Sind/Creeping Lemma. Cams useful on the belay.
2. 25m. 6a. Gain the cave steeply from the right to reach a peg. On 18/7/9 this peg was noted to be extremely sh!t by now and unlikely to hold a fall. Good effort placing it in EBs in 1978 though! Exit leftwards and continue to reach the Moon/Cow belay. This pitch is E5 6a and often wet.
3. 30m. 6b. Reverse the second pitch of The Moon leftwards until underneath the groove. Ferocious moves entering the groove form the crux. If successful, you will not find it difficult to see where to go next. Protection once established in the groove is good, although the rock is fragile in places.
Mick Fowler and Mike Morrison 7/8 April 1978 3 points aid. FFA Andy Pollit and Steve Andrews,10 May 1984. Second free ascent Stevie Haston 1980s.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , James' 2015 Summer.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Jub-Jub Bird

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Rhoscolyn)

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