Rockfax Description
A decent route although it is run-out in places. Start from the triangular niche.
1) 5a, 42m. Head straight up the groove to a quartz break, and move left into a groove system. Follow this, trending left until level with the Lighthouse Arete roof. Move through the overlap onto a headwall and head diagonally right to an overlap. Make a committing series of moves up the final crack to easier terrain and a ledge on the arete and belay.
2) 4a, 30m. As for the rest of Lighthouse Arete P3. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Derek Furze | 26 Apr |
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βeta: Brilliant. Position is fabulous | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant. Position is fabulous |
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| THE.WALRUS | 21 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Tough crux - hidden side-pull | ||
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βeta: Tough crux - hidden side-pull |
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| Brimham55 | 19 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Instead of belaying at the lighthouse arete final belay, do so on the large ledge before the 5a moves on the headwall. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Instead of belaying at the lighthouse arete final belay, do so on the large ledge before the 5a moves on the headwall. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack
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A Dream of White Horses
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)