Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Summer 2022
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
Rockfax Description
A decent route but a little run out. Start from a triangular niche.
1) 5a, 42m. Head straight up the groove to a quartz break and move left into a groove system. Follow this, trending left until level with the Lighthouse Arete roof. Move through the overlap onto a headwall and go diagonally right to an overlap. Make a committing series of moves up the final crack to easier terrain and a ledge on the arete and belay.
2) 4a, 30m. As for the rest of Lighthouse Arete P3. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Consolidation VS-HVS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 17 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Line is different (wrong?) in the currently in Rockfax app, and guide books (2013 & 2023) the route climbs through the cracks above the cone feature, according to the Ground Up Gogarth South guide description and topo. Original GU select seems to use the old (incorrect? line too) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Line is different (wrong?) in the currently in Rockfax app, and guide books (2013 & 2023) the route climbs through the cracks above the cone feature, according to the Ground Up Gogarth South guide description and topo. Original GU select seems to use the old (incorrect? line too) |
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| Derek Furze | 26 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant. Position is fabulous | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant. Position is fabulous |
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| THE.WALRUS | 21 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tough crux - hidden side-pull | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Tough crux - hidden side-pull |
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| Brimham55 | 19 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Instead of belaying at the lighthouse arete final belay, do so on the large ledge before the 5a moves on the headwall. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Instead of belaying at the lighthouse arete final belay, do so on the large ledge before the 5a moves on the headwall. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack
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The Concrete Dream
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)