UKC

Rockfax Description
A decent route although it is run-out in places. Start from the triangular niche.
1) 5a, 42m. Head straight up the groove to a quartz break, and move left into a groove system. Follow this, trending left until level with the Lighthouse Arete roof. Move through the overlap onto a headwall and head diagonally right to an overlap. Make a committing series of moves up the final crack to easier terrain and a ledge on the arete and belay.
2) 4a, 30m. As for the rest of Lighthouse Arete P3. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Derek Furze 26 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant. Position is fabulous
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant. Position is fabulous
THE.WALRUS 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tough crux - hidden side-pull
Show beta
βeta: Tough crux - hidden side-pull
Brimham55 19 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Instead of belaying at the lighthouse arete final belay, do so on the large ledge before the 5a moves on the headwall.
Show beta
βeta: Instead of belaying at the lighthouse arete final belay, do so on the large ledge before the 5a moves on the headwall.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 70
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Dream of White Horses

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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