UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A decent route but a little run out. Start from a triangular niche.
1) 5a, 42m. Head straight up the groove to a quartz break and move left into a groove system. Follow this, trending left until level with the Lighthouse Arete roof. Move through the overlap onto a headwall and go diagonally right to an overlap. Make a committing series of moves up the final crack to easier terrain and a ledge on the arete and belay.
2) 4a, 30m. As for the rest of Lighthouse Arete P3. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Consolidation VS-HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 17 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Line is different (wrong?) in the currently in Rockfax app, and guide books (2013 & 2023) the route climbs through the cracks above the cone feature, according to the Ground Up Gogarth South guide description and topo. Original GU select seems to use the old (incorrect? line too)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Line is different (wrong?) in the currently in Rockfax app, and guide books (2013 & 2023) the route climbs through the cracks above the cone feature, according to the Ground Up Gogarth South guide description and topo. Original GU select seems to use the old (incorrect? line too)
Derek Furze 26 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant. Position is fabulous
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant. Position is fabulous
THE.WALRUS 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tough crux - hidden side-pull
Show beta
βeta: Tough crux - hidden side-pull
Brimham55 19 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Instead of belaying at the lighthouse arete final belay, do so on the large ledge before the 5a moves on the headwall.
Show beta
βeta: Instead of belaying at the lighthouse arete final belay, do so on the large ledge before the 5a moves on the headwall.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 80
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scavenger

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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