Another cracking route and the easiest way out! Make a direct abseil to sloping ledges below the right-hand side of the wall.
1) 5a, 50m. Move up and left onto the grey wall, and traverse across this, rising slightly to pass below a tower. Moving into a groove to the left of the tower is steep and committing, but the climbing soon eases. Belay on blocks below the steep wall.
2) 5b, 24m. Traverse up and left across a break (soft sandy rock) to reach the slab and a change in the rock. Gain the sloping shelves on the left, usually on all fours, and wonder how to cross the 'gap'. Once across, The Moon belay is to your left.
3) 5c, 45m. Move left into the corner. Climb this to a slab and traverse left in a spectacular position (reverse parts of The Moon). At the end of the slab, undercut leftwards around a nose to the base of a loose section. Make your way carefully up the arete right of the rock scar as for The Castell Helen Girdle. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
OCTOBER 2019: Report of rockfall on pitch 2, possibly making it unclimbable?
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