Loading Notifications...

Rockfax Description
Another cracking route and the easiest way out! Make a direct abseil to sloping ledges below the right-hand side of the wall.
1) 5a, 50m. Move up and left onto the grey wall, and traverse across this, rising slightly to pass below a tower. Moving into a groove to the left of the tower is steep and committing, but the climbing soon eases. Belay on blocks below the steep wall.
2) 5b, 24m. Traverse up and left across a break (soft sandy rock) to reach the slab and a change in the rock. Gain the sloping shelves on the left, usually on all fours, and wonder how to cross the 'gap'. Once across, The Moon belay is to your left.
3) 5c, 45m. Move left into the corner. Climb this to a slab and traverse left in a spectacular position (reverse parts of The Moon). At the end of the slab, undercut leftwards around a nose to the base of a loose section. Make your way carefully up the arete right of the rock scar as for The Castell Helen Girdle. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
OCTOBER 2019: Report of rockfall on pitch 2, possibly making it unclimbable?

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simon Allcock 29 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Having tried p2 (hadn’t seen the news of the rockfall), it does seem to have fallen down. Just after the cheese and ramp, round the corner where the description talks about creeping on all fours, there is now a bottomless featureless corner.
 
Show beta
βeta: Having tried p2 (hadn’t seen the news of the rockfall), it does seem to have fallen down. Just after the cheese and ramp, round the corner where the description talks about creeping on all fours, there is now a bottomless featureless corner.

Logged Ascents

174 users have logged this
15 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 31
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Resolution Direct

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)