Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 


127m, 4 pitches. HXS. A sandy, mucky, soft and overhanging leap of faith into the known, which may be the unknown as it changes with every ascent. But don't worry, it doesn't change that often. The two pegs from the first ascent have gone, so muster up some faith in long slings wrapped around quartz and the odd nut or cam in muck, but not too many.

The climb is four pitches. If you flip a coin, call heads and opt for the first and third, if your partner comes up tails and opts for the second and fourth pitch, run away, he, or she is a lunatic, and if they choose what the sane would choose, the first and third, run away also.

If you continue with this climb and reach the top, well done, you never repeat it, but of course there will be no need, because it will remain with you for ever.

It's given one star, but it's a five-star experience.

Mick Fowler and A Saunders Sep/1984.


North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck


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Route of Interest

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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