One of the most amazing routes at Gogarth. The climbing is involved, adventurous but never desperate, and the geology is simply marvellous. Start at the base of the zawn at the left-hand side of a cave.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb to the top of the groove, place a high wire, move back down and step out onto the wall. Now trend up and right against the grain of the rock to eventually arrive at a slab. Follow this across right to a stance.
2) 5a, 45m. Climb up onto the wall and traverse right to a diagonal line. Move up this and then round a fin of rock on the right to enter the next groove. Follow this up to where it turns into a long narrow slab, and continue to a thread belay at its top, below a steep tower.
3) 5a, 30m. An exciting finale! Move right into a niche, and gain a crack on the right, follow this up with difficulty to where it kinks left to a corner. Follow the corner up to where the angle eases. Climb easy ground up right and then back left to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
In the definitive guide the first and second pitch's are both given 5b, which I would agree with. Take plenty of slings.
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