UKC

Rockfax Description
Rather harder and much scarier than its name-sake on Red Wall. The first pitch is horrific - soft, loose and difficult to protect. Whereas the top pitch is harder (both physically and geologically) but easier to protect. Start down the grassy rake, just above a line of overlaps.
1) 5c, 30m. Start up the groove, and shuffle up to a roof. Waddle right onto a steep slab and head up and across this to another shallow groove. A committing finale leads to the ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 35m. To the right is a flake/crack, move out and then up it to a small ledge. Traverse right past a peg into a shallow niche and gain the diagonal crack above. Follow this crack up and right until it is possible to finish directly up to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's

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User Date Notes
Andy Stewart2 18 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lugged a #4 cam all the way up without placing it, so I'd ditch it next time! The belay is fine. There's an assortment of good wires, bomber spike and crap pegs. What more could you ask for, other than maybe a cool drink and an ice cream lowered down from the top?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lugged a #4 cam all the way up without placing it, so I'd ditch it next time! The belay is fine. There's an assortment of good wires, bomber spike and crap pegs. What more could you ask for, other than maybe a cool drink and an ice cream lowered down from the top?

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Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Centrefold

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)

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