A totally absorbing route, the main thrust of which is the compelling and rather frightening chimney.
1) 5a, 45m. As for Mousetrap.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb up onto the wall and traverse right to a diagonal line, move up this and then round a fin of rock on the right to enter the next groove. Follow this up to a break. Mousetrap heads left up the ramp/slab, you need to move up and right to a sloping ledge and belay.
3) 5b, 25m. From the left-hand end of the ledge, climb diagonally left and over a bulge, heading for the overhanging chimney. Shuffle up this to gain the red wall above, then move right until it is possible to climb straight up. Belay on the right.
4) 5b, 20m. Traverse right for 3m, then pull up and left over a bulge and follow a weakness rightwards onto easier ground. © Rockfax
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