UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

60m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb pitch and independent route with good gear, sustained climbing and intricate route finding. Start below a pinnacle on the ramp, between Infidel and Anarchist.
1) 6a, 50m. Climb carefully onto the pinnacle and step left to a crumbly ledge. Move up and left around a steep rib, past a letterbox slot (cams) then go up to a peg. Climb the wall direct for 10m past good wires to a small ledge. Move up and right to join Anarchist at a detached flake. Follow Anarchist with comparative ease to belay on the ramp.
2) 4c, 20m. Finish up the grassy ramp and slab above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start just down from the Prom. Climb the right side of the flake pillar. From the top left of the pillar move left past the remnants of a peg up to the small roof and arrange some protection here. Move back down to join the crimpy traverse line past another peg. Soon after passing the peg begin to climb up and trend slowly rightwards to eventually join Anarchist at its midway boomy flake. Continue up Anarchist or trend leftwards into Infidel/Deygo if your desire more pump.

Ticklists

Gogarth Extreme Gems

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User Date Notes
Steve Long Sep, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: We finished up the crack of Infidel. This combination makes perhaps THE best single pitch at Red Walls.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We finished up the crack of Infidel. This combination makes perhaps THE best single pitch at Red Walls.

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heart of Gold

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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