A classic line that has tricky route finding. Start as for Deygo.
1) 5b, 20m. This is Deygo P1. Traverse right across soft rock - poor and a poor peg - to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb straight up from the belay on dodgy rock to a break-line. Traverse left to below a tricky wall. Follow a vague groove up and slightly right then go straight up to a ramp-line leading up right to a ledge and belay at the base of a large flake.
3) 5c, 42m. Wade up the flake in a great position to a break. Follow the break left to a small niche, then move up this trending rightwards into a deep slot - passing this is tricky. Follow the easiest line to a groove that leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One of the best outing on Red Walls, Loose, adventurous and at times dangerous. Dragon cam #5 improves the Belay at the top of pitch 1. The vague break line mentioned at the start of pitch 2 is approx 20m up and left from the Belay. (Full of grass tufts)
North Wales Rock Graded List , Good E4s , UK Lonely Leads , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
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