Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.


A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 


92m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic line that has tricky route finding. Start as for Deygo.
1) 5b, 20m. This is Deygo P1. Traverse right across soft rock - poor and a poor peg - to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb straight up from the belay on dodgy rock to a break-line. Traverse left to below a tricky wall. Follow a vague groove up and slightly right then go straight up to a rampline leading up right to a ledge and belay at the base of a large flake.
3) 5c, 42m. Wade up the flake in a great position to a break. Follow the break left to a small niche, then move up this trending rightwards into a deep slot - passing this is tricky. Follow the easiest line to a groove that leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best outing on Red Walls, Loose, adventurous and at times dangerous. Dragon cam #5 improves the Belay at the top of pitch 1. The vague break line mentioned at the start of pitch 2 is approx 20m up and left from the Belay. (Full of grass tufts)


North Wales Rock Graded List , Good E4s , UK Lonely Leads , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces


User Date Notes
Misha 4 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely take a large blue cam for the belay at the top of P1.
Show beta
βeta: Definitely take a large blue cam for the belay at the top of P1.
Andy Stewart2 10 Sep, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous!
Show beta
βeta: Fabulous!

Logged Ascents

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Horizon

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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