UKC

92m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another classic line that has notoriously tricky route finding. Start as for Deygo.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse right across soft rock, with little in the way of gear, past a poor peg, to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge. This is Deygo P1.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb straight up from the belay on dodgy rock to a vague break-line. Traverse left to below a tricky wall, with an even vaguer groove. Follow the groove up and slightly right, before heading straight up to gain a ramp-line leading up right to a ledge at the base of a large flake. Belay at the base of this flake.
3) 5c, 42m. Wade up the flake in a great position to its end at a break. Follow the break left to a small niche, then move up this trending rightwards into a deep slot - passing this is the crux. Follow the easiest line to a groove that leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best outing on Red Walls, Loose, adventurous and at times dangerous. Dragon cam #5 improves the Belay at the top of pitch 1. The vague break line mentioned at the start of pitch 2 is approx 20m up and left from the Belay. (Full of grass tufts)

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

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User Date Notes
Andy Stewart2 10 Sep, 2016 Show βeta
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest

Ormuzd

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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