Start either in the niche as for Lighthouse Arete, or take a hanging stance just to the right.
1) 4c, 30m. Move up and right to gain a crack. Climb this to where it closes out and move right and up to an overlap. Step left into the base of a groove. Climb this to the half-height ledge.
2) 4b, 30m. From the left end of the ledge, make tricky moves to better holds in a break (as for Rap). Traverse left to join Lighthouse Arete (optional stance). Follow this to the top.
The top pitch of Rap is a better option to give a good direct line. © Rockfax
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