A great top pitch up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea cave.
1) 5a, 20m. As for Oceanid.
2) 6a, 24m. Move diagonally left, then back rightwards above an overhang to a small ledge and a peg. Follow the tapering crack above, past a large wedged cornflake, to fingery moves that gain the final, slightly broken wall. The crack has many rusty pegs in place but a number have narrow eyes, so some narrow-nosed karabiners will be found useful to clip them. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Snell, Keith Knight (aided) 21.2.1976. FFA. Steve Monks, Steve Findlay 28.11.1981.
Extreme Rock , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , Swanage wild pumpfests , UK Lonely Leads , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)
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