A true classic of its grade, which follows an almost unbelievable path into, and out of territory that looks as though it should be reserved for far more extreme climbs. Start on ledges level with an orange, lichen-covered ledge (this is the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch) as viewed from the easy, rocky-ground that runs down the right side of the zawn.1) 13m. Traverse horizontally rightwards past a bay to a good stance on the orange ledge.2) 4b, 22m. Continue the traverse rightwards for a further 12m, then descend the steep wall and corner to a point just above the high-water mark. Move right to a stance and belay. This pitch requires careful route-finding, and is much trickier if damp.2a) 4b, 18m. An inferior variation on the second pitch continues the traverse, below a long, narrow overhang, all the way to meet the base of the corner above the cave, and a restricted stance. This variation is less affected by sea conditions.3) 4a, 38m. Take the wall above the stance to meet the corner at the overhang. Follow the corner in a breathtaking position, all the way to the top. © Rockfax
Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Kernow, West Country Climbs, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Classic Corners, UK Lonely Leads, HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, South West VDiff-HVS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, Adventure ticklist 2018, Definitive *** West Cornwall, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Traverses of trady radness, Pre-departure, 2020/21 Trips, I want a Pasty!
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