Rockfax Description
A moorland classic with varied crack climbing. Start right of the flake at the base of the gully.
1) 4a, 9m. Climb the crack and then the groove above (it is also possible to climb the left face of the groove) to a good ledge.
2) 4a, 9m. Chimney up the steep crack and exit onto a large ledge and belay or run this pitch into the next.
3) 9m. The easy chimney above to finish. Belay on blocks. © Rockfax
FA. W.Higgins 1949.
West Country Climbs , Dartmoor punter fifty (ish) routes in a day , 40 For 40 , Bristol Crack School , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Birds , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Severe Stars , By May…
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Munnit | 19 Jul |
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βeta: Definitely a stiff start, felt more like 4b. The rest of the climb was lovely. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely a stiff start, felt more like 4b. The rest of the climb was lovely. |
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tim@arête | 12 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: A couple of sections did feel tough for a severe. The chimney was awkward but reasonably secure. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A couple of sections did feel tough for a severe. The chimney was awkward but reasonably secure. |
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Bennyboy1233 | 30 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Harder than I expected it to be! Good fun though | βeta? | |
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βeta: Harder than I expected it to be! Good fun though |
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jamesrankin | 27 May, 2020 |
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βeta: in one pitch, bit draggy but OK | βeta? | |
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βeta: in one pitch, bit draggy but OK |
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Dale Berry | 2 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Great old fashioned climbing that requires a bit of grunt. The 'second' pitch has excellent large Hex protection at its start so is well worth placing. Perfectly feasable to do in one pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great old fashioned climbing that requires a bit of grunt. The 'second' pitch has excellent large Hex protection at its start so is well worth placing. Perfectly feasable to do in one pitch. |
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Matt_b | 30 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Just do it in two pitches. The second pitch hardly worth roping up for. The chimmney requires a bit of old school climbing. Hard if not used to this style of climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Just do it in two pitches. The second pitch hardly worth roping up for. The chimmney requires a bit of old school climbing. Hard if not used to this style of climb. |
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)