UKC

27m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A moorland classic with varied crack climbing. Start right of the flake at the base of the gully.
1) 4a, 9m. Climb the crack and then the groove above (it is also possible to climb the left face of the groove) to a good ledge.
2) 4a, 9m. Chimney up the steep crack and exit onto a large ledge and belay or run this pitch into the next.
3) 9m. The easy chimney above to finish. Belay on blocks. © Rockfax

FA. W.Higgins 1949.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Dartmoor punter fifty (ish) routes in a day , 40 For 40 , Bristol Crack School , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Birds , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Severe Stars

Feedback

User Date Notes
tim@arête 12 Oct Show βeta
βeta: A couple of sections did feel tough for a severe. The chimney was awkward but reasonably secure.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A couple of sections did feel tough for a severe. The chimney was awkward but reasonably secure.
Bennyboy1233 30 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Harder than I expected it to be! Good fun though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder than I expected it to be! Good fun though
jamesrankin 27 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: in one pitch, bit draggy but OK
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: in one pitch, bit draggy but OK
Dale Berry 2 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great old fashioned climbing that requires a bit of grunt. The 'second' pitch has excellent large Hex protection at its start so is well worth placing. Perfectly feasable to do in one pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great old fashioned climbing that requires a bit of grunt. The 'second' pitch has excellent large Hex protection at its start so is well worth placing. Perfectly feasable to do in one pitch.
Matt_b 30 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Just do it in two pitches. The second pitch hardly worth roping up for. The chimmney requires a bit of old school climbing. Hard if not used to this style of climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just do it in two pitches. The second pitch hardly worth roping up for. The chimmney requires a bit of old school climbing. Hard if not used to this style of climb.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 160
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 104
Votes cast 140
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ben

Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)

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