Rockfax Description
A minor moorland-classic that needs dry conditions to be enjoyed to the full. Start at two small holes below the remains of an iron spike at 5m.1) 5b, 14m. Climb direct up the slab from the two holes, initially with great difficulty, to the summit of the huge flake. Move right to belay below the rounded crack in the upper wall. 2) 5a, 13m. Access the wide, rounded crack in the upper wall via a tricky pull through the bulge. Follow the crack and slabs above to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Hard boulder start (5b), may be worth bringing a mat if you have one handy though the landing is flat. Continuing direct past the iron spikes (runner) leads to easier delicate climbing. There's gear after the spikes in the groove to the right (nut/cam or two) then a bold section until near the top of the pitch. Try not to sneak off left at the top.
Ann is also a worthwhile pitch, with a hard start into the rounded groove (5a) and delicate finish. It is often vegetated but it does not detract too much from the climbing, a bit more mileage would help.
West Country Climbs , 40 For 40 , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ian Carr | 21 Jun |
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βeta: Needs a good clean | βeta? | |
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βeta: Needs a good clean |
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Hal Mungbean | 10 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Upper section completely coated in moss. Clean?! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Upper section completely coated in moss. Clean?! |
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ADJ85 | 17 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Horribly lycheny | βeta? | |
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βeta: Horribly lycheny |
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Sean Kelly | 3 Oct, 2011 |
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βeta: Runner in crack to right. A further good nut/cam in a horizontal finger-slot a little higher. Found a sling & karabiner on top! | ||
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βeta: Runner in crack to right. A further good nut/cam in a horizontal finger-slot a little higher. Found a sling & karabiner on top! |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lundy)