UKC

27m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A minor moorland classic that needs dry conditions. Start at two small holes below the remains of an iron spike at 5m.
1) 5b, 14m. Climb (with great difficulty!) direct up the slab from the two holes to the top of the huge flake. Move right to belay below the rounded crack in the upper wall.
2) 5a, 13m. Gain the rounded crack via a tricky pull through the bulge. Follow the crack and slabs above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Hard boulder start (5b), may be worth bringing a mat if you have one handy though the landing is flat. Continuing direct past the iron spikes (runner) leads to easier delicate climbing. There's gear after the spikes in the groove to the right (nut/cam or two) then a bold section until near the top of the pitch. Try not to sneak off left at the top.

Ann is also a worthwhile pitch, with a hard start into the rounded groove (5a) and delicate finish. It is often vegetated but it does not detract too much from the climbing, a bit more mileage would help.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , 40 For 40 , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Dan’s Delights

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User Date Notes
Chaman 5 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Currently clean of moss - June 2023
βeta?
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βeta: Currently clean of moss - June 2023
Ian Carr 21 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Needs a good clean
βeta?
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βeta: Needs a good clean
Hal Mungbean 10 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Upper section completely coated in moss. Clean?!
βeta?
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βeta: Upper section completely coated in moss. Clean?!
ADJ85 17 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Horribly lycheny
βeta?
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βeta: Horribly lycheny
Sean Kelly 3 Oct, 2011 Show βeta
βeta: Runner in crack to right. A further good nut/cam in a horizontal finger-slot a little higher. Found a sling & karabiner on top!
Show beta
βeta: Runner in crack to right. A further good nut/cam in a horizontal finger-slot a little higher. Found a sling & karabiner on top!

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 84
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last Exit to Torquay

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

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