Rockfax Description
100m. A good route taking the right-hand of the two right-slanting ramps, right of the buttress. Start just left of the left-facing corner which defines the right side of the pink and green slab.
1. 15m 4b Climb a quartz band up the slab to a large flake.
2. 25m 4c Continue by a groove and crack above for 12m, then up right to turn the square roof by the crack on the right. Gain a grassy bay.
3. 30m 4a Climb up left to the recess above. Climb cracks and corners slightly rightwards to below a wall adjoining Deep Cut Chimney.
5. 30m 4c The wall via a tricky central bulge.
FA J.R.Marshall, J.Stenhouse, Sep 1961 © Rockfax
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , UK Holiday Plans , Jimmy Marshall Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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TradSimon | 19 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: A sort of narrow dyke to start - but it isn't quartz as it says in the guidebook. P1 - Lots of rope drag so suggest split into two of about 20m, but a really good 40m of climbing. Top pitch Severe? | ||
Show beta
βeta: A sort of narrow dyke to start - but it isn't quartz as it says in the guidebook. P1 - Lots of rope drag so suggest split into two of about 20m, but a really good 40m of climbing. Top pitch Severe? |
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mandyglanvill | 26 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: gear was were you needed it | ||
Show beta
βeta: gear was were you needed it |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hell's Lum)