UKC

Rockfax Description
100m. A good route taking the right-hand of the two right-slanting ramps, right of the buttress. Start just left of the left-facing corner which defines the right side of the pink and green slab.
1. 15m 4b Climb a quartz band up the slab to a large flake.
2. 25m 4c Continue by a groove and crack above for 12m, then up right to turn the square roof by the crack on the right. Gain a grassy bay.
3. 30m 4a Climb up left to the recess above. Climb cracks and corners slightly rightwards to below a wall adjoining Deep Cut Chimney.
5. 30m 4c The wall via a tricky central bulge.
FA J.R.Marshall, J.Stenhouse, Sep 1961 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , UK Holiday Plans , Jimmy Marshall Routes

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User Date Notes
TradSimon 19 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A sort of narrow dyke to start - but it isn't quartz as it says in the guidebook. P1 - Lots of rope drag so suggest split into two of about 20m, but a really good 40m of climbing. Top pitch Severe?
Show beta
βeta: A sort of narrow dyke to start - but it isn't quartz as it says in the guidebook. P1 - Lots of rope drag so suggest split into two of about 20m, but a really good 40m of climbing. Top pitch Severe?
mandyglanvill 26 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: gear was were you needed it
Show beta
βeta: gear was were you needed it

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 17
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Clean Sweep

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hell's Lum)

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