Rockfax Description
160m. A great route up the rightmost of four corners close together about halfway up the cliff. Not obvious from the cliff base but, when reached, this corner is above a big block. Below the start of the diagonal fault is a green whaleback buttress; just right of the lowest point of the cliff base.
1. 30m 4c Go up the corner on the left of the buttress for a short way to gain a groove. Go up the groove to cracks on the crest, which leads to the top of the buttress.
2. 45m 4a Cross the fault and climb slabs and corners to a huge block below the pink corner.
3. 45m 4c Climb the corner and the continuation fault; a superb pitch.
4. 40m 4b Continue by cracks, corners and bulges up the round grey edge above to near the top. A short easy pitch finishes.
FA R.Smith, G.Tiso, Sep 1961 © Rockfax
R Smith, G Tiso Sep/1961.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Stopsy | 31 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Not sure what the comments about micro wires / cams we're about. Felt adequately protected with standard gear. | ||
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βeta: Not sure what the comments about micro wires / cams we're about. Felt adequately protected with standard gear. |
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Flashy | 17 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: P1 has the potential to be extremely bold at the crux which feels more like 5a than 4c. BD micros 3 & 4 and 3/8 Alien makes it pretty well protected. | ||
Show beta
βeta: P1 has the potential to be extremely bold at the crux which feels more like 5a than 4c. BD micros 3 & 4 and 3/8 Alien makes it pretty well protected. |
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mikeyjbs | 14 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Very wet | ||
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βeta: Very wet |
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sblake | 2 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Tricky couple of moves for vs onto the whaleback. Very small cam protects it but then makes moves harder. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Tricky couple of moves for vs onto the whaleback. Very small cam protects it but then makes moves harder. |
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Phil_Brock | 7 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Starting crack on first can be very wet, pushing you right onto drier but featureless slab - friction smears and no gear although it eases as you go up. Crux on first pitch needs a small cam (I used black totem, DMM 00 may fit) or small (and slightly suspect nuts) to protect the friction dependent crux - tricky when your shoes are wet! Definitely feels like 5a. Second pitch can be absolutely soaking wet and there is loose rock and plenty of dirt / grass. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Starting crack on first can be very wet, pushing you right onto drier but featureless slab - friction smears and no gear although it eases as you go up. Crux on first pitch needs a small cam (I used black totem, DMM 00 may fit) or small (and slightly suspect nuts) to protect the friction dependent crux - tricky when your shoes are wet! Definitely feels like 5a. Second pitch can be absolutely soaking wet and there is loose rock and plenty of dirt / grass. |
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